Why bare-root trees are worth considering

A bare-root tree is exactly what it sounds like: a young tree lifted from the nursery field during its dormant season, with the soil shaken from its roots and sold without a pot or rootball. For UK gardeners, this is often the best-value and most reliable way to plant. The trees are lighter to handle, cheaper to buy and far easier to transport than container-grown stock, and because they arrive with nothing but roots and branches, they settle into their new home quickly once the soil warms in spring.

The planting window runs roughly from late October through to March, whenever the ground is workable and not frozen or waterlogged. Bare-root trees simply will not tolerate being out of the ground in summer, so if you see them for sale in July, walk away. Buy from a specialist nursery that lifts to order, and aim to plant within a few days of delivery. If you cannot plant straight away, heel the roots into a spare patch of soil or a pot of damp compost and keep them somewhere cool and sheltered.

Choosing the right tree for your plot

Before you buy, spend a little time matching the tree to the space. Check the eventual height and spread, not the size of the sapling in front of you. A native oak or a walnut needs room to become a proper woodland tree; a crab apple or rowan will sit happily in a modest garden. If you are planting fruit, look at the rootstock, because that determines how large the mature tree will grow and how soon it crops.

Inspect the roots before you commit. A good bare-root tree has a wide, fibrous root system with plenty of fine roots, and the bark should be firm and unbroken. Reject anything with dry, brittle roots, a shrivelled trunk or obvious signs of disease. Order early in the season for the widest choice, and ask the nursery which species do well on your soil type.

Preparing the ground properly

Good preparation is where bare-root planting is won or lost, so give yourself an hour or two before the tree arrives.

• Clear grass and weeds from a circle at least a metre across, so the young tree has no competition for water and nutrients.
• Dig a hole wide enough to take the roots spread out naturally — usually two to three times the spread of the roots — and no deeper than the root system itself.
• Keep the topsoil in one heap and the paler subsoil in another, then fork over the base and sides of the hole to break up any compacted layer.
• Test drainage by filling the hole with water. If it is still standing after several hours, plant somewhere else on the plot or raise the tree on a slight mound of improved soil.
• Improve the soil around the planting area with well-rotted organic matter, but keep the hole itself fairly plain. Rich compost in the hole encourages roots to circle rather than venture out.

Planting, step by step

Soak the roots for an hour or two before planting — no longer, or they will begin to rot. Then trim any broken or ragged roots with clean secateurs and shorten the top growth only if the nursery advises it.

• Sit the tree in the hole so that the old soil mark on the trunk is level with the surrounding ground. Lay a cane across the hole to check the level.
• On grafted trees, make sure the graft union stays well above soil level — around 10–15cm clear is a sensible guide.
• Spread the roots out over a shallow cone of soil, then backfill in stages, firming gently with your heel as you go.
• Tug the trunk lightly once you have finished. The tree should feel anchored, not loose. Aim for firm but never compacted.
• Water thoroughly, even if the ground is already damp, to settle the soil around the roots.

Staking and supporting young trees

Most bare-root trees benefit from a stake for their first few years, particularly on exposed or windy sites. Drive the stake into the ground before you finish firming, on the side the prevailing wind comes from, and angle it at about 45 degrees for smaller trees. A short angled stake allows the trunk to flex and thicken naturally, which builds a stronger tree than rigid support.

Tie the trunk to the stake with a proper adjustable tree tie, using a figure-of-eight loop so the bark is never rubbed. Check ties every spring and loosen them as the trunk swells. Remove the stake after two or three years for most garden trees, once the roots have taken hold. Fit a rabbit or deer guard where browsing is likely.

Watering, mulching and aftercare

The first two growing seasons decide whether your tree thrives. Water deeply and less often rather than little and frequently — a good soak every ten days in dry spells is far better than a daily sprinkle. Mulch around the tree with 5–8cm of well-rotted organic matter in spring, keeping it a hand's width clear of the trunk to prevent rot.

Keep the planting circle weed-free, check the tie and guard regularly, and prune only to remove damaged or crossing branches in the first year. Avoid feeding in the planting season itself, and never plant into frozen or waterlogged ground. Get those basics right and your bare-root tree will reward you with decades of growth.